Skip to content

Rivers and Mountains

December 1, 2014

So, you are looking for a lesson on being really, really cold, right? Well, here’s a great idea: go packrafting in the Kenai River. In late November. Spend half the day standing in said river trying to catch trout on a fly rod. Watch your fly rod tip freeze up in the process. Realize that you are rapidly losing sunlight because you have no time reference.

Back in February, we had the brilliant idea to packraft the Upper Kenai River from the headwaters and Kenai Lake to the Russian River Landing. It was a gorgeous day, warm, with much fishing success. We liked the trip so much, we decided to repeat it last weekend as November tips towards December.

We rounded up our Doppelgangers and hit the headwaters of the Kenai River at the winter sunrise hoping for an equally nice day as we had in February. The difference between late November and late February is that in late November the sun never actually hits the Kenai River. A slightly overcast day didn’t help, though we were starting to get a snow (finally).

riversnmount 1

The headwaters of the Kenai River…at 11 am.

We rafted down to our usual spot and setup to look fish for trout. All of us immediately noticed how much colder this adventure was than last time. With each cast our fly tips froze and we had to periodically cycle out of standing in the river for any extended period of time. Our spirits were low because we weren’t catching much of anything. Jamie offered a round of ice-cold beers to warm our spirits. Unfortunately they only made us all colder.

riversnmount 2

Our stopping spot for fishing. Jamie was the first one to hit the river.

After a re-rig of our fly rods, we started catching fish. Jamie landed a beautiful rainbow that we forgot to photograph because we were all so excited. In this area of the Kenai, large fish must be returned to the river, so he let the fish go. Bixler hooked up to something massive that shook his fly. Krystin was the last one to get a nibble. Though the excitement we realized that we were rapidly losing daylight and that we needed to head downriver.

riversnmount 3

Krystin hits the water to fly fish. A much better fly fisherman was upstream of us in the background.

The float was rougher than last time. The river was running slightly higher due to all of the early November rain. The one Class III rapid on the river was a monster, and all of us flooded our packrafts, necessitating a stop and a second chance at fishing.

At this point we were all freezing. Hands and feet were the hardest hit, making both fishing and walking on the slippery, rocky shoreline a nightmare. Krystin stopped fishing early to conserve energy. Jamie, whose hands were soaked from the rapid, made the executive decision to hurry downriver before it becomes too cold and too dark. We hopped into our iced-up packrafts and pulled out early at the bridge near the Resurrection Pass trailhead.

Shivering, we nixed the idea of stopping at Wildman’s for the legendary single scoop of ice cream. Though Alaskans may eat more ice cream per capita than any other state, the thought of a cold cone of ice cream was out of the question.

We said farewell to the Doppelgangers and headed home to immediately sit in our hot tub for an indeterminate amount of time. We thought of packrafting another river, but the cold wore us out. We could hardly get out of bed the next morning and decided to head out for a more heat-inducing adventure.

All along the highways in Alaska are random ATV trails that seemingly lead to nowhere. Since we are tiring of our usual round of snowshoeing trails, we decided to head out onto one of those random ATV trails.

riversnmount 4

The trail to no where starts climbing us up high enough to get some nice views.

riversnmount 5

The valley across from our climb. Does it have a trail? Who knows.

It turns out that the trail was some sort of old mining road that led us up the side of a steep mountain. This was our first snowshoeing trip of the season and we toiled to get as high as we could before, again, losing our sunlight.

riversnmount 7

Bixler toils up the mountain side after grabbing an errant ptarmigan.

riversnmount 6

The beautiful, but dangerously steep, trail.

riversnmount 9

Bixler stops the near the end of the trail. We were close to the top of the mountain, but we were out of sunlight.

riversnmount 10

The sun disappears at the far end of the valley around 2 pm. A storm which will bring more snow (including down to sea level at our house) hangs on the horizon.

The trek was difficult, but the view was worth it. And we stayed nice and warm the entire time, too.

riversnmount 8

Damn! What a view!

Calm After the Storm

November 18, 2014

Typhoon Nuri passed over us finally leaving a few days of glorious sunshine in our wake. We celebrated by receiving numerous notifications that our blog was featured in an NPR article about eating bear! Apparently, the general attitude that bears are cute and cuddly is slowly changing around the US as bears become more numerous in populous areas. Maybe this will keep the anti-hunting YouTube comments down for a change on our Boat, Beaches, & Bears series for a change. Or maybe not.

That was the first piece of good news. The second was a combination of a high aurora activity alert coupled with crystal-clear, calm weather. When Nuri passed over us, she left relatively warm weather in her wake. Sorry Lower 48, but Alaska sent another blast of cold down to you guys. This makes for the most ideal aurora borealis viewing because one isn’t constantly running in and out trying to warm up on those cold Alaskan nights.

aurorapackraft 11

The aurora lights up our dark neighborhood. Note the big dipper (essentially Alaska’s state flag) captured in this image.

The aurora was so bright that we literally stepped outside and watched it from our driveway. Our neighbor’s cat, Dusty, came by to wonder what we were doing at this crazy hour outside.

aurorapackraft 1

Spires of light of different colors emanate off the aurora.

Two nights of excellent aurora viewing allowed us to play with the settings on our camera. In reality, the aurora at our latitude is quite light in color, though you can see it both dancing and changing from green to orange with the naked eye. A long exposure on a camera is what creates those brilliant pictures plastered all over the internet. We played around with our exposure time, sometimes exposing the image for as long as 90 seconds.

aurorapackraft 10

This 90-second exposure captures portions of the aurora that are difficult to see with the naked eye.

aurorapackraft 9

In comparison, this a shorter exposure. You can still see interesting bands of light from the aurora. A few wispy clouds make for an eerie image.

In between the two clear nights, we headed out to the Snow River delta on Kenai Lake for some unsuccessful duck hunting and packrafting. We were taking it easy on our usual extreme adventures because Krystin came down with a nasty head cold the week before and was still recovering.

aurorapackraft 4

Krystin stands at the mouth of Snow River gazing towards the mountains near Lost Lake.

aurorapackraft 3

The Snow River Delta. The highway is actually in this picture, but is obscured by alder and that blinding sunlight.

We first paddled out to the delta to try our hand at duck hunting. Even at this time of year ducks hang out in Snow River, but they are few and far between. The Seward Highway transects the delta, so one needs to be careful when shooting. No ducks for us, but an interesting place to explore. This time of year the rivers in Alaska are running at low water (or frozen), exposing all kinds of interesting features.

aurorapackraft 2

No ducks, but lots of great views and interesting features.

We then paddled along the far side of Kenai Lake, an area we’ve never fully explored. Kenai Lake is also at low water, exposing a beach along the shoreline. Because of our relatively snow-free winter so far, bears are still out and about as evidenced by the numerous bear tracks along the shoreline.

aurorapackraft 5

The frozen and cold Kenai Lake shoreline at low water.

aurorapackraft 6

Lots of interesting tracks on the beach…

aurorapackraft 7

Oh look, bears!

The weather might be warm, but the sunlight is still disappearing at its usual rate. By 2:30 pm we were losing our overhead sun to the mountains and paddled back to the car. We do have a great idea though: packrafting far out along the shore of Kenai Lake and camping at an indeterminate location. Next weekend, maybe? We’ll see if the weather holds!

aurorapackraft 8

Plenty of driftwood to burn in the future!

Coming Soon! Boat, Beaches, & Bears 3 Official Trailer!

November 11, 2014

It’s happening! We are in the throes of editing the still-unnamed Boat, Beaches, & Bears 3 full length feature. We’ve had several requests from viewers wanting a preview of our third installment of the Boat, Beaches, & Bears series, so by popular demand, here is the official trailer! Enjoy!

Winter. Sort of.

November 7, 2014

Well, winter is upon us, sort of. We did have some snow at our house, then a giant warm storm moved in and it promptly started raining down here at sea level. We wanted to do an attempt at the Resurrection Pass Trail over Halloween only to find that the trailhead was snowed in on the northern end! Yikes! Guess that was an abrupt end to our backpacking season. Right now it is 36 degrees and raining. Rain this cold borderlines misery, so what better day for a blog post to recount what we’ve been up to this winter so far.

Buying a giant Alaskan truck

Ever since we moved to Alaska we’ve had a giant truck-shaped hole in our lives. After several weekends of borrowing a friend’s little Nissan, Bixler developed an itch to find a similar truck. A small, gas-powered, manual transmission truck quickly changed over to a diesel beast. Why? Because every Alaskan needs a truck so large it requires more than one parking space to properly park it.

wintersortof 3

Truck yeah! Our new truck taking up two parking spots at the local Safeway.

Enter our new truck. She is a beautiful, 1-ton beast, a 1992 Ford F-350 with dual diesel tanks and the same wonderful sounds and smells as Carpe Ventos’ engines. We found out that Seward only has a handful of radio stations and surprisingly the best one plays Rush Limbaugh in the morning and country music in the afternoon. *Grabs belt buckle* Time to drive over some liberals!

In all seriousness, we’ve found the truck to be surprisingly useful and we’ve used her on numerous wood gathering and dump runs. A second car is a great for such activities like packrafting!

wintersortof 4

We finally hauled away that junk pile behind our house. As much as we like the idea of having resources at our fingertips, we really aren’t that type of Alaskan.

wintersortof 15

Krystin opens the gate into the dump. Yep, watch for bears…

Woah! A gift of knives!

Peter Demmer, owner of Terrier Blades in Canada, commented on one of our Boat, Beaches, and Bears (here and here) videos and offered a gift of knives. A few email exchanges later, he dropped two of his handmade knives in the mail. When we got them, our first reaction was “wow.” These knives are awesome! If you are looking for some quality knives, check out his website in the link above. We were incredibly thankful for the gift, so much that Bixler decided to start editing Boat, Beaches, and Bears 3. Hey, we are a trilogy now!

wintersortof 9

These aren’t just knives. They are works of art!

Its snowing profusely, so let’s go packrafting!

On a blustery snowy day we decided to celebrate the coming of winter by going packrafting down Snow River just outside of Seward. Snow River normally runs high, but as the glaciers that feed the river freeze it up, the river becomes more manageable. In late winter the river is frozen solid, so we took the opportunity to do a Snow River float from the turnout where the two forks of Snow River meet almost to Kenai Lake. Our truck can in handy to haul the still-inflated packrafts home.


Oh look, frozen bear tracks!

wintersortof 5

We paused at the railroad bridge over Snow River for a picture. It was really starting to snow!

wintersortof 6

Most of Snow River is littered with dead trees which are difficult obstacles when packrafting, especially with snow in your face.

wintersortof 7

Woohoo! Packrafts in the truck!

wintersortof 8

A snowy surprise as we drove home after packrafting. The truck didn’t have her studded tires on yet, so Bix had to pull over and put her into four wheel drive.

Future Boat Projects

On the agenda for the future, we finally decided to replace the opening ports on Carpe Ventos. We’ve been tenderly opening and closing these ports for five years and we aren’t sure how much longer they are going to last. Krystin did ample research and finally settled on Beckson ports over New Found Metals, which makes stainless steel ports. As much as stainless steel would be beautiful, it seems far to impractical up here because of the high humidity and freeze-thaw cycles. We are hoping to install these this winter.


Coming soon: new opening ports on our boat!

“This is not the cat you are looking for…”

Our neighbors headed out of town over Halloween for five days and called to warn us in advance that their cat Dusty might come by looking for social interaction. They said we could ignore him, but we have big hearts for cats, so when Dusty appeared at the door, we had to let him in. Immediately he made himself at home, hanging out with our cat Jupiter, playing with his Star Wars action mice (yep, we couldn’t resist buying Petco’s Star Wars cat toys), and sleeping on our bed and the guest bed. Having Dusty around made us think about making the big decision of adding a second cat to our household. We were doubly sold on the idea when Bixler walked into the Ace Hardware store in town and saw that the owners had adopted a cat named Lion to keep the shrew population down in the store. Awwww….

wintersortof 10

Dusty, sitting outside in the cold, watches Jupiter longingly as he eats his dinner.

wintersortof 12

Dusty, also declawed like Jupiter (he came like that; declawing is cruel), sits on Jupiter’s scratchy box. Jupiter doesn’t seem to mind.

wintersortof 11

The cuteness is strong with this one. It is pointless to resist putting him back outside.

Got Wood?

We’ve been spending a lot time traipsing around National Forest land to cut and gather large quantities of wood for next winter. Nothing says fun like carrying massive rounds of wood out of the forest to be stacked at home. Well, that didn’t stop there. Bixler had the brilliant idea of renting a log splitter, which he towed with his new truck, and spent 7 hours splitting all that wood. We then restacked all that wood over a two-day period. A friend of ours says “wood warms you twice,” because you gather it then burn it. We calculated that wood warms you 7 times because apparently we kept moving our wood into circles. At least we will be warm next winter!

wintersortof 1

Bixler marvels at the pile of rounds we drug to the road. Naturally, he wasn’t done cutting up dead trees yet.

wintersortof 2

Bixler found a giant downed hemlock in our backyard. This is what became of it.

wintersortof 14

Hey, look what we can tow with our truck!

wintersortof 13

Bixler spent 7 hours splitting all that wood. Krystin and the doppelgängers spent two days stacking it all.

Hiking Tiehacker

Tiehacker is a mountain behind our house that we had heard from numerous sources has a trail up it. What our sources didn’t say is that the trail is straight up hill and the top had a good foot of fresh snow despite there being no snow at sea level. It was a brutal, tiring hike, but the views of Seward were worth it. Sadly, no ptarmigan. We hope to head back up there sometime soon!


A Dall Sheep broke trail ahead of us along the cliff.


Looking over the cliff, we finally saw Bear Glacier that sits up above our house.


Looking across the valley you can see the mountains that surround Lost Lake, another favorite area of ours.


Seward, Resurrection Bay, and the incoming storm on the Gulf of Alaska.

Wow! First Blog Award Nomination!

November 7, 2014

We’re taking a break from doing awesome Alaska stuff to blog about our nomination for a Liebster Award by Gone Floatabout! Thanks, Gone Floatabout!


The Liebster Award is an award passed around by the blogging community to recognize blogs by other bloggers. Essentially it acts as a chain letter where you are nominated for an award, you answer a handful of questions and then pose new questions and nominate other bloggers. There are several variations on the award, but we are going to follow Gone Floatabout’s method and pass on the award to others. But first, their questions:

1. What has been your favorite moment on (or in) the water so far?

So, we found this question surprisingly difficult to answer because we’ve had so many amazing moments on the water aboard Carpe Ventos. Seriously, how can we pick a favorite moment when one weekend we are basking in the midnight sun drinking local brews and listening to Hawaiian slack key and the next weekend we return to the dock with a black bear hide draped over the stern? We chose to answer this question a bit more philosophically: our favorite moment is that second when we have full sails up and we turn the engine off. Seward is in our wake and the wilderness is at our fingertips. The next adventure in the Last Frontier is just around the corner.

2. What brought you to sailing/solo voyaging (Glenn)/diving (Pink Tank) in the first place?

Sailing has been something that has been a part of our lives for a very long time. Bixler learned to sail with his father and has been aboard sailboats since he was little kid. Krystin learned to sail in college because she had a schoolgirl crush on a dorm mate that also happened to be a sailing instructor. She learned to sail through him and ended up liking sailing more than the dorm mate.

As for sailing in Alaska, we decided to get a sailboat to explore Alaska’s 50,000 miles of coastline. If you’ve ever looked a road map of Alaska, you will notice that there aren’t too many roads. Much of Alaska is inaccessible by road, so most people invest in some sort of alternative vehicle. We chose a sailboat because of our love of sailing and as a means to get out and explore the seemingly endless wilderness.

3.  What is your biggest passion outside of sailing (or diving for PT)?

While Question 1 was difficult to answer, this was extremely easy. Our friend Larissa summed it up best: Resource Extraction. Enter the modern homesteaders. We love all the means of living off the land from hunting to fishing to berry picking to mushrooming. We spend a good portion of our time finding ways to pull food from the Alaskan wilderness and cool, old-school ways to preserve them. Another friend of ours always notes that if the world ever ends, he is going to come over to our house. Thank you pressure cooker and dehydrator!

4. What is your favorite book and why?

We are both avid readers, especially during the sailing season. Our two favorite genres are Alaskana and sailing, both of which are small genres. We do throw about 90% of the books across the boat either because they are just terrible or we are sadly disappointed by the end. Between the two of us, we do have conflicting opinions over which is the best book.

Bixler: The Long Way by Bernard Motessier. If you consider yourself a hardcore sailor and you don’t know who Bernard Motessier is, you need some serious education. Motessier is one of the most renown sailors in modern history, having participated in the first ever non-stop around-the-world race, the Golden Globe Race. He was the major contender set to win, but then decided to go halfway around the world again to meet up with friends in Tahiti rather than pursue fame and fortune. Motessier grew up in French Indochina (now Vietnam) and his writing reflects a sort of East-meets-West philosophy. Seriously, you sailors, download this to your Kindle.

Krystin: Coming into the Country by John McPhee. If you haven’t read anything by John McPhee, you need to do so right now. He writes exclusively non-fiction, but it is written in a creative and insightful format. His book Coming Into the Country is probably the most famous and centers around his time in Alaska. The book is observational and McPhee does a fantastic job of characterizing numerous types of Alaskans. Though it was written in 1976, much of his observations translate to today. It is one thing to read Coming into the Country and speculate about Alaska; it is another thing to live it.

5.  What has been your most difficult/challenging moment out on (or in) the water?

Again, a non-specific answer to this question: The most difficult moment out on the water is facing uncertainty. It is one thing to sail in a place where you know you always have cell or radio service, or there is always someone willing to help you around the corner, but it is another thing to sail in a completely remote location. Self-sufficiency is a must, and the idea of being completely self-sufficient is very daunting. We have to anticipate every iteration of “what could possibly go wrong.” Many nights aboard Carpe Ventos are not restful, even in the most placid of waters.

Blogs We’ve Nominated

Now here’s the part where we nominate blogs for a Liebster Award! Here are our picks:

Hunt/Fish/Play: Amber’s adventures in and around Madison, Wisconsin. A self-described “greenhorn,” she focuses on a lot of the same stuff we do: hunting and fishing.

Memoirs of a Skydweller: Andrew’s around-the-world adventures. He started his blog after meeting Bixler in Anchorage during the grounding of the Kulluk on Kodiak.

Empiricus Embarks: Jesse, our friend and former neighbor, recounts his two-summer quest through the Northwest Passage, thoughts, and future sailing goals.

Bearly Alaskan: Kristen and Andrew started this blog to relay their experiences as newly minted Alaskans. We met them this summer in Seward and they have since relocated to Anchorage and are loving life!

Doing manly things (mostly): Andy’s adventures through fatherhood while hunting and fishing and doing other cool stuff.

Questions to Other Bloggers

  1. Why did you decide to start blogging?
  2. What has been your favorite experience you’ve blogged about so far?
  3. What would be your dream adventure/trip?
  4. What is your favorite movie (or movies) and why?
  5. Seriously, cats or dogs?

On Remote Cabins and Grayling Fishing

October 28, 2014

A little over a week ago, we woke up to our first hard frost. We noticed that the sun no longer reaches our backyard and we find it more difficult to wake up every morning with a 9 am sunrise. Outside perpetually looks like late afternoon sun, and it is cold. And we aren’t talking about that “let’s put on a light jacket cold.” This is the “holy crap time for snow pants” cold and “what the hell, why is the deck still icy?” cold.

Our last two weekends were occupied by visiting Crescent Lake, north of Seward. We’ve covered in the ins and outs of using the Forest Service cabins at the Crescent Lake Saddle (here and here) and at the end of Crescent Lake, so this post offers more of a commentary on our observations at each cabin.

Crescent Lake Saddle Cabin

Our favorite cabin of the two is by far the saddle cabin. This was our first weekend destination and we were excited because the saddle cabin is the ultimate in remoteness for being relatively close. It lies along a difficult ankle-busting primitive trail that keeps most of the daytime mountain bikers away. The cabin sits on a bluff overlooking the lake at ground zero for any potential winds that might pipe up in the afternoon. We’ve spent many a night at the saddle cabin listening to sheets of rain and the wind rattling the door. However, the wood stove is skookum and we’ve slept comfortably in below zero weather.

CrescentDouble 7

The saddle cabin has amazing views on either side of the crescent.

We were lucky enough to pick a weekend where the weather was agreeable to the point a fog formed on the lake our last day. We had excellent views of sheep and goats on Wrong Mountain across the cabin and the night air was so still we actually heard an earthquake traveling towards us before it hit the cabin!

CrescentDouble 8

Our last day at the saddle cabin looked like this. An eerie fog had formed over the lake and the surrounding foliage was frosty white.

The only problem with this cabin along with many public cabins is that they are public. The saddle cabin was a mess when we arrived. No wood, dirty, filled with trash and a summer’s worth of crap. Time better spent cutting and storing wood was spent burning heaps of garbage and packing up the non-burnables. There seems to be a huge disconnect between the type of people to visit during the summer months and those during the winter months. The “summer” crowd notes in the log how they left a used sleeping bag or expired coffee for the next users (how generous!) while the “winter” crowd only grumbles about said “presents.” We’ve starting becoming stewards of the Kenai Peninsula cabins and packing out enormous quantities of trash because this is our home and these cabins are technically owned by the American people.

After cleaning and gathering wood, we spent the rest of the weekend trying to catch Arctic Grayling. Grayling are an elusive fish and picky eaters this time of year as their watery world starts to freeze. The cabin is generously provided with a rowboat (which was stolen at one point during the summer according to the cabin log) that we used to pursue these little fish at some islands on the lake.

CrescentDouble 2

The USFS sure has a lot of faith in cabin users by providing a row boat.

Bixler nabbed one on the spinning reel and Krystin got one right out in front of the cabin by dropping a dry fly on top of the water just above it. Cabin users note that grayling are far more abundant at the end of the lake where the lake dumps into Crescent Creek. This is also the location of the Crescent Lake Cabin, our adventure for the following weekend.

CrescentDouble 4

Bixler stands proudly showing off his grayling.

CrescentDouble 3

Krystin contemplates which fly to use to catch the grayling sitting in about four inches of water nearby.

CrescentDouble 5

Krystin’s grayling caught on dry fly. Check out the size of that fish!

CrescentDouble 6

Dinner that night in the saddle cabin using a frying pan we salvaged from a junk pile. Yum!

Crescent Lake Cabin

The cabin at the end of Crescent Lake is almost identical to the saddle cabin with a slightly different layout and fussier stove in dire need of a new gasket. The trail is far more agreeable to beginning backpacker with a gentle grade up to the lake. It follows Crescent Creek, and much to our surprise, there was a fair amount of snow on the trail!

CrescentDouble 10

There was much more snow and much colder temperatures the following weekend at the end of the lake.

When we arrived at the cabin, we were expecting the scene to be the same. Luckily for us we were surprised to find a clean cabin stocked with wood. There were still a few junk items we packed out, but overall we were pleased to see that some cabin users actually posses a soul and think of the next users down the line when leaving the cabin.

Like the saddle cabin, we made use of the rowboat and enjoyed the calm weather. This weekend was significantly colder than the previous, and the lake was edged with ice that extended more and more to the lake center each day.

CrescentDouble 15

Each morning we awoke to more and more lake ice along the shores of Crescent Lake.

We were excited by the possibility of catching our limit of grayling, but had a heck of a time catching them. We speculated that it was because the water is near freezing and the fish were shutting down for the season. However, we were reading the cabin log for this cabin and noting that people were catching 100 grayling a day catch-and-release. This probably makes some of the fish slightly skeptical when an easy meal sparkles in front of them. We are all for catch-and-release if regulation mandates it, but sometimes it just seems like torture for the fish. We get so much pleasure out of catching one grayling and eating it and wish others could feel the same.

CrescentDouble 14

Bixler poses with his grayling catch after a full day of fishing.

We managed to catch three for home consumption using the spinning rod to lure the fish up from the deep. We met a few other people who had hiked or biked up to try their luck fishing. Most people are courteous to cabin users, but some disregard the sign near the cabin and just wonder in.

We were fishing near the river mouth on the row boat when we saw two people standing on the bridge pointing to us. Bixler had a hunch they were headed to the cabin, so he rowed as fast as he could to the cabin beach. As Krystin got out of the boat, sure enough the hikers were right on the cabin porch. A stare-down and gesture later and the intruders were gone. Go Krystin.

CrescentDouble 13

Well, this isn’t obvious or anything…

CrescentDouble 1

Wayward visitors nearly stepped inside our cabin being warmed by the wood stove. Thank goodness Krystin was there to scare them away!

CrescentDouble 12

The only intruders that were welcome to our cabin were the nearby camp robbers looking for a quick meal.

Because of the relative accessibility of this cabin, it attracts some interesting people. The cabin log provided by the USFS is always a treat to read and Krystin even found a previous drawing she had made from last year’s visit. Some of the logs are simply a “we did this, we did that” description, but others are a real riot to read. A fellow from out of the country visited the cabin and berated Alaskans for calling eagles scavengers (they are) and fellow Alaskans commented about how they had to share the cabin with cold Californians, and then added “Californians with sleep apnea.”

CrescentDouble 11

Krystin points to her drawing of a rabbit (sitting in a recliner and holding a glass of wine) she made last year (Krystin, age 29 1/2) next to a child’s giant rabbit drawing (age 7).

We always leave a decent blurb about our weekend. When Krystin was filling out the log before we left on Sunday, Bixler was retrieving water from the lake and getting ready to brush his teeth. Krystin’s pen wasn’t working too well because of the cold and Bixler came in and noted his boots were frozen. He picked up the toothpaste and tried to squeeze it. It was frozen solid. We laughed and Krystin added it to our blurb.

CrescentDouble 9

The view from the cabin and the pathway to our water source. As the temperature dropped we argued over who would be the lucky person to get water.

You might encounter dirty cabins. You might find yourself packing out more than you packed in. You might even find that the fish aren’t biting. But hey, sure can’t beat the view! Especially at Crescent Lake, one of our favorite corners in Alaska.

CrescentDouble 16

Crescent Lake at sunrise. Can’t beat the view!

Holy Mole! California Style Goat Fajita Burrito Smothered in Homemade Mole Sauce

October 14, 2014

People always ask us, “do you miss anything about living in California?” Our one and only response: Mexican Food. And we aren’t talking about the kind of Mexican food you find in Anchorage. We are talking about the kind of Mexican food where you have to look up your dish on your iPhone because you don’t know what it is. Ever heard of an Alambre? Yeah, that was a new one for us. Another new invention is the California-style burrito, popular in southern California. It goes a little something like this:

California Burrito = Regular Burrito – Rice + French Fries

And it is awesome!

What can possibly make it better? Smothering it in mole (that’s pronounced mol-aye) sauce and using wild mountain goat as the base meat, cooked fajita style.

A burrito can have just about anything in it you like, but to make it a California Style Fajita Burrito, you need some essential components. Oh, and you must serve it with horchata!

moleburrito 1

See those french fries? Yep, California style!

moleburrito 2

The same burrito rolled up and smothered in hot mole sauce.


Horchata is a refreshing rice milk drink that pairs well with spicy Mexican cuisine. It must be be made several hours in advance to allow the rice to absorb water and meld with the flavors. The longer you let it sit, the better the flavor. For a quick version of horchata, try using rice milk instead. We used this recipe, but soaked the rice much longer than what was called for.


  • 2 cups of milk
  • 1 cup uncooked long grain rice
  • 5 cups of water
  • 1 tbsp vanilla extract
  • 1 tsp ground cinnamon
  • 2/3 cup of white sugar


  1. Mix the rice and water and let sit at room temperature for up to 4 hours. You can use it in as little as 45 minutes, but the longer you let it sit, the better the horchata.
  2. Blend rice and water mixture thoroughly. Strain out rice particles and discard.
  3. Combine rice water with milk, vanilla extract, cinnamon, and white sugar. Mix thoroughly.
  4. Chill in the fridge and serve on ice with your favorite Mexican dish!

Mole Sauce

Mole sauce is a rich sauce used in Mexican cuisine that balances the heat of peppers with the richness of chocolate. If you’ve never had mole sauce, you probably haven’t lived a full life. It is one of the best sauces to use, but should be used sparingly because it is both time consuming to make and quite rich on the palate. If you plan on attempting mole sauce we recommend you invest in an immersion blender like they always use on Chopped. This way you aren’t constantly transferring your sauce between sauce pan and conventional blender. Our recipe turned out awesome and it makes a vat, so have some Tupperware handy to freeze it. We modified this recipe and our version is transcribed below. Many of the dried peppers can be found at specialty food stores and they are pretty common. We were able to find them in Anchorage. Again, we recommend you make this ahead of time to allow the flavors to meld and because it is a relatively involved recipe.


  • 3 cups of chicken broth + extra for thinning sauce
  • 2 dried guajillo chiles, stemmed and seeded
  • 2 dried ancho chiles, stemmed and seeded
  • 3 dried chipotle chiles, stemmed and seeded
  • 1 slice sourdough bread, chopped into half-inch squares
  • 2 small flour tortillas, cut into inch-long strips
  • 2 tomatoes, cut in half crosswise
  • 5 tomatillos, cut in half crosswise
  • 1 tbsp of lard
  • 1 onion, thinly sliced
  • 1/2 head of garlic, pealed and sliced
  • 1/4 cup of dried cranberries
  • cumin, cloves, cinnamon, allspice, and thyme, to taste
  • 3 ounces 100% dark chocolate, coarsely chopped
  • 3 ounces 60% dark chocolate, coarsely chopped
  • 3 tbsp white sugar
  • 1 tsp of salt


1. Heat 2 cups of chicken broth in a large sauce pan until it starts to simmer, about five minutes. Turn off heat after reaching a simmer.

2. In a dry cast iron skillet (because every house should have one), toast dried guajillo chiles, dried ancho chiles, and dried chipotle chiles until warm and aromatic, about 3 minutes. Transfer to sauce pan with chicken broth.

3. Toast sourdough bread pieces and tortilla pieces in a dry cast iron skillet until browned, about 3 minutes. Transfer to chile-broth mixture.

4. Allow the chiles, sourdough bread, and tortilla pieces to fully absorb chicken broth, about 10 minutes. Using an immersion blender, blend the mixture until smooth. If you are having trouble blending, try tilting the sauce pan and adding just a touch of broth.

5. Roast the tomatoes and tomatillos in the medium-hot dry skillet, until soft and blackened, about 3 minutes a side. Transfer to the chile puree.

6. Melt lard in a large skillet over medium heat. Stir in onion, garlic, and dried cranberries. Add spices liberally. Cook and stir until onions are golden brown, about 5 to 8 minutes. Transfer to chile puree. Blend tomatoes, tomatillos, and onions until smooth.

7. Reheat chile puree over medium heat. Stir in chocolate, 1 cup of chicken broth, sugar, and salt. Bring to a simmer and stir until chocolate is melted. Slightly reduce the sauce and let it sit to allow flavors to meld. Reheat when you are ready to use.

Duck Fat Fries

To make a burrito “California Style” you must include french fries in the burrito. We enjoy making duck fat fries because the duck fat adds a nice flavor to the fries along with a good crunch. The key to making excellent fries is frying them twice. First in a neutral-flavored oil like vegetable oil (canola gives the fries a “fishy” flavor) and then in duck fat. Here’s how we make our fries.


  • Potatoes, cut into fries. We use Yukon Gold since they are common in Alaska.
  • Vegetable Oil
  • Duck Fat
  • Salt


  1. Heat vegetable oil and duck fat in separate pans. Be sure to monitor each oil so they don’t burn. Once oil has passed its smoke point it becomes unusable.
  2. Soak fries in an ice water bath until the oil is ready.
  3. Fry the fries in vegetable oil first, until cooked, about 5 – 8 minutes
  4. Using a slotted spoon or tongs, lift and drain the fries. Immediately drop them into the duck fat and fry until golden brown.
  5. Transfer fries to a plate with paper towel to dry. Add salt to taste.

Add the duck fat fries to the burrito with your favorite Mexican fillings and smother in the homemade mole sauce. We ended up making too much, so we invited our friend Jesse over who just completed the Northwest Passage. You can read his adventures at Empiricus Embarks. He inspired Bixler to buy a pair of those classic red long johns with the butt flap. Both wore their long johns went eating the burritos and we finished the night playing some music!


Jesse and Bixler jam to some music in their matching long johns. Yep, this is our life…


Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 327 other followers